Last update 23 Nov 2007
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Tony & Jude's Narrative
Despite the detail in the itinerary it was difficult to know what to expect from this trip. OK, so you know what places and attractions you are going to visit, but the first time in a new country is always going to test your ability to adapt. I want to focus on the trip to the Qinling Mountains, as that was the defining reason for this trip over the other many China tour holidays that exist. I think it was our love of camping and getting away to unusual places that made this part of the trip particularly appealing. I think we also have a slightly masochistic streak as we were drawn to the requirements to walk through bamboo forest to get to the protection station.
I have to start by saying that this part of the holiday exceeded our expectations! We both felt it was an almost magical experience. The scenery was lovely. The main trail up the valley crosses and re-crosses the river many times by various footbridges. There are several small waterfalls, and if you are lucky along the way you might spot a Golden Pheasant.
From the first moment the protection station appeared nestled in a valley between the mountain peaks you could tell this was a special place to visit. The accommodation was sparse consisting of a 
concrete block containing about nine double rooms, but no worse than we expected from the description in the brochure. The most common topic of conversation for most was the toilets but at least you didn't have to dig and fill in your own hole with a maglite clenched in your teeth!
It wasn't actually much in terms of hardship, as you still got hot water delivered to your door in two large flasks although use for washing was limited as this had to be used for drinking water the following day. We also had freshly laundered sheets that were brought in on the pack mules that day, and an electric light for a couple of hours in the evening. The food was excellent with a local woman from the village creating multi-dish meals on wood stoves that probably bettered anything we had in the restaurants in Beijing and Shanghai. And there was beer (although never enough for Alan!)
I felt the special ingredient was the people, starting with our two guides Jane and Forbey. 
The moment they appeared to start the trip dressed like two mini girl guerrillas in their combat fatigues you knew they were fun. They took great trouble to explain all things natural and historical to us, sat with us at mealtimes, and generally looked after us. After we were together for the best part of six days, you really did feel that they had become friends. Some of the things that happened definitely come under the "you had to be there" category. For instance, how can you begin to explain how lovely Forbey's rendition of a song from Mulan was at the Panda Hotel party!
There were other characters too, from the guides like Mr He who scoured the mountains for Pandas for us, to the surly looking porter whose name I think was Mr Khan about whom I loved the tale of him turning bright red when a female guest had lifted him off the floor in a giant hug. 
And what of the Pandas you ask. Well you can't expect to get up too close to them, nor to be guaranteed to see one. Perhaps the most you can hope for is flashes of black and white as they rummage around in thick clumps of bamboo. Most of us at least saw that, but two members were lucky enough to get a full on side view of a mother Panda. Jude, or DeDe to use her panda name, was moved to tears by the experience.
All in all we had a wonderful time and would love to go back someday.